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More on "The Spice Islands"...
Banda Neira (The airport is located)
behind : Gunug Api, an active volcano)
Getting to the Bandas has been one of life's great adventures for centuries. From the time of the Roman Empire, the tiny islands, part of the Moluccan chain, were a well-guarded secret of Chinese and Arab traders, and the mysterious source of the entire world supply of cloves, nutmeg, and mace. Christopher Columbus, it is said, was looking for the Spice Islands when he landed in the Americas. In 1512, Portugal located and conquered the Bandas. In 1621, the islands were seized by the Dutch, who amassed fabulous wealth by cornering the spice trade.
Today, except for a renovated 17th century fort and a few old government mansions along the waterfront of Banda Neira, the islands' hub, little has been preserved of the Dutch era, which ended when Indonesia won its independence in 1945. But Banda Neira's tree-lined streets and clapboard buildings recall the grace of colonial design.
The big attractions are the Bandas' reefs, which many marine biologists regard as the world's richest, surpassing even Australia's Great Barrier Reef. From November through April, the waters are generally clear and placid for snorkeling among the angelfish in the brilliantly colored coral gardens.
Even more remarkable, these reefs are unspoiled. One reason Banda's reefs thrive is because local fishermen are unusually vigilant in safeguarding their source of fish. The other reason is Des Alwi, the Bandas' ecotourism-minded orang lima, or ``chief of chiefs.'' As the political power broker, the former independence activist established the tourism industry and has a tight grip on commercial activities. He also owns the islands' main hotel, the Maulana, whose long veranda looks out over the sea and the Gunung Api volcano.
Fort Belgica
Located at top of the hill in main island, Banda Naira. It is said that Christopher Columbus was searching for the Spice Islands when he discovered America instead in 1492. The Portuguese arrived in Banda in 1512. They were the first European to come searching for the nutmeg. Next came the Dutch in 1599. The construction of this Dutch fort began in 1611.
Banda Neira and the nearby islands have trails that take you through heavily forested mountain ridges, villages, and 400-year-old nutmeg groves. For a good workout and a breathtaking view, hike to the top of Gunung Api. Easy steps give way to a steep scramble over loose gravel that one of my companions noted is like "scaling a wall of golf balls.''
For better or worse, modern tourist resorts are on the way. The Alwi family has signed a joint venture with Indonesia's Aman Group to build an exclusive, 50-room, eco-friendly resort next year. Another first-class hotel is under discussion with ITT Sheraton. Still, Alwi says that he wants all new hotels to be small and to limit the number of guest rooms in the Bandas to 200.
Not all islanders are happy with the Alwis' commercial dominance. But even critics concede that the result of quirky Bandanese politics is that the islands are unlikely to be spoiled soon. Arguing that the Bandas would be ruined by big tour groups, Alwi has fought government plans to expand Banda's tiny airstrip to accommodate large jets. Eventually, though, air service will improve. So the time to see the Bandas is before Merpati ever gets its act together.
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Diver's Tales aims to bring you the extraordinary in dive spots around the world. Experience the special, the mystical off-the-beaten-path places not yet known to everyone. Enjoy!
Our Diver's Tale this month... Banda Islands, Maluku,
Indonesia
Please note regarding the Banda Islands:
1. There are currently no planes flying to the Bandas, although the airport
is perfectly serviceable. The nearest you could get to the Bandas is Ambon,
flying from Makassar (old name, Ujung Panjung). Then you'd have to wait
for the ferry (once every two weeks), and stay at the Bandas for 17 days
until the ferry returned.
2. There is no reliable diving gear nor compressor on the islands.
3. There are virtually no tourists anywhere on the islands - maybe 4 to
6 every two weeks at the most.
The troubles of early 1999 caused a great deal of looting and killing,
and virtually all of the Christian population has been moved to Ambon.
There is talk of transporting them back. This may or may not cause future
problems.
The Maulana Hotel is open, but may close at any time. The Laguna is closed.
There are plenty of
small, very inexpensive places to stay, all empty. There are only three
small restaurants. Needless to say, there are no bars or nightclubs!
All of the tourist attractions (Fort, shark pool, Dutch church, etc) are
run-down, but still worth seeing. Of course, it is possible to snorkel
in excellent conditions (possibly the best in Indonesia) by hiring small
boats. But it's impossible to dive there safely.
The thousand-odd islands of Maluku - the Moluccas to the Western world - are the original spice islands. The islands' many havens of sunny, powder-white shores graced by palm trees went unheralded at a time when nutmegs, cloves, and mace were worth their weight in gold. Today, Maluku is undergoing a rediscovery by the world for its excellent diving.
In the 19th century, renowned naturalist Alfred Wallace declared the fishes of Maluku "perhaps unrivalled for variety and beauty by those of any one spot on earth." On the brink of the 21st century, divers are just beginning to understand what Wallace meant.
The Bandas offer stunning tropical scenery, a remarkable history, friendly villages, and some of the globe's most pristine, biologically diverse coral reefs. Scuba is new here, but the pioneering divers didn't have to work hard for their thrills. The undersea world around Ambon and the nearby island of Saparua have top-rate dive sites. Highlights among reef walls here are the presence of large marine life - sharks, enormous turtles, schools of Napoleon Wrasse, giant groupers, tuna, rays, and huge lobsters - neighbors to generous schools of reef fish.
Banda Islands, Southeast of Ambon
The hotels are two, the Mulana and the Laguna Inn, modest but comfortable, right on the bay, with dramatic views across the channel to still-active Gunung Api volcano. Local "patron" Des Alwai, who runs the hotels, is the leading light here, and he's easily accessible at either of his hotels. He's the guy to talk to about diving(some of the best in the world), hiking, history, you name it). If the accommodations were good enough for the Duchess of York(she had rooms 225 and 227 on the corner of the Maulana), they're probably good enough for me. The Mulana Inn and the Laguna Inn: $50-$95 double(including some meals), Tel. 62 910 21022, Fax. 62 910 21024. Faxes can be iffy in the Moluccas, phones even more so. Write Box 3193, Jakarta, Indonesia. (DBG)
Maluku's weather pattern is a little different from most of Indonesia's. The best diving is said to be from March to June, and again from October to November. Diving is possible all year round, but the monsoon may restrict your choice of dive sites from July to September.
The Banda Islands have two dive seasons, one centered around April, the other in October. The months before and after these are generally also good. The off seasons bring high waves and relatively turbulent seas: December through January during the northwest monsoon, and early June through August for the southeast monsoon.
With enough time and patience, one can enjoy good diving even off season, as there are always breaks in the weather. Visibility, however, remains restricted to 10 - 20 meters off season, as opposed to 30 - 40 meters in the ideal months. The cost of diving-boat, tanks, weight belts, etc. is quite reasonable. For trips further out, it's easier on the wallet to form groups of 4 to 6 divers.
If it were any more convenient to reach the Banda Islands, they would be overrun with tourists. The only way to reach them is to island-hop the Indonesian archipelago by small planes, ferry services, or eco-friendly cruises for serious divers
The Banda Islands are situated southeast of Ambon. Access is by air, via small twin-engine aircraft to an airstrip on Banda Neira Island. The biggest town in this archipelago is Bandeneira, and it has, at last count, 12 vehicles. Sleepy Bandeneira belies the powerful pulling strength of its immaculate reefs, paradise to expert and novice divers alike.
By Air
Domestic flights from Jakarta and Ujung Pandang to Ambon, followed by small aircrafts to Banda Neira on hapless, uncomputerized Merpati Airlines. Beware of getting stuck in Ambon for a day or so because of one of Merpati's frequent "mechanical problems.'' . The thrice-weekly flight on the 20-seat turboprop is also often overbooked. The plane only takes 14--unless someone's got luggage, in which case it takes 12.
See more on our Diving in Indonesia page...
Send us your Diver's Tale!
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