Rockslide turned out to be our favourite dive of the trip, by far the most breathtaking. A gentle slope, dropping from the island to about 200m (656ft), it was completely covered in boulders. The current was frisky, so we crawled over the rocks then stopped at 20m (66ft) to watch a shoal of scalloped hammerheads swarm in. There were more just below us and our divemaster signaled for us to swim down.
We descended into the water like ice, a bitter thermocline making it hard to breathe although we were already breathless at the sight of so many sharks. We stayed as long as we could stand the cold, then swam back up to meet a shoal of eagle rays dancing over our heads.
The site was so impressive we were willing to brave the frigid conditions and repeat the dive. There were less scalloped hammerheads but twice as many eagle rays, the visibility was lower and the current even faster, which seemed to amuse the rays. They hovered effortlessly while we clung to the rocks like limpets until we headed up into the blue to do a safety stop. A large school of silky sharks circled beneath us. It was a little disconcerting but it seems they were only admiring our fins.